Comments

"During my career as a birding tour leader and later during a 13 month stint as resident naturalist at Manu Lodge in Manu National Park, I had a number of opportunities to make brief visits to Amazonia Lodge. I was intrigued by the possibilities that were obvious during even these short visits, so when I was offered the opportunity to spend the month of July, 1997, there I jumped on it. I was not disappointed. Although Amazonia has enjoyed the attention of ornithologists and bird watchers since the early 80's and has an impressive birdlist, even by upper amazonian site standards, I was able to add a new species to the list my first night there, when, under a full moon I heard a Long-tailed Potoo calling close at hand. At the time, that species was unrecorded for the entirety of Manu National Park, which has a birdlist of just at 1000 total species and is the richest single site of comparable size for bird diversity in the world. A couple of nights later I was able to show the potoo to lodge owner Santiago Yabar, who promptly named it "Raul", which is a remarkably good approximation of its howling call. I am happy to say that the potoo has now nested in the same spot by the lodge for the past couple of years and has become a regular feature for visiting birders.

Amazonia is located at the terminus of the narrow road from Cusco over which the majority of tourists who visit Manu National Park with various tour organizations licensed to operate there leave their specially built buses and embark on a river journey down the Rio Alto Madre de Dios to its confluence with the Rio Manu and thence up the Manu into the Reserved Zone of the Park. Amazonia itself is in the "cultural zone", where limited colonization and agriculture is permitted. The property itself lies partly on the flat floodplain of the river, which is at about 500 m. (1700 ft.), and extends up the slopes of a long ridge running parallel to the river to its crest which averages about 1000 m. (3300 ft.). The lodge was an old tea plantation, abandoned around the early 1970s. The hacienda has been turned into comfortable and very nicely maintained quarters. The lodge is owned and operated by the Yabar family, who have zealously protected its habitats and wildlife. Their kindness and service are legendary among those fortunate enough to have spent time at Amazonia.

The floodplain was largely planted in tea and citrus fruits in the first half of the century. This has now reverted to a second growth forest of remarkable diversity. The slopes of the ridge have what is perhaps the most beautiful terra firme (upland) amazonian forest I have ever seen. A well marked trail leads to the ridge top and then along it. While it is rather steep is places, birding is so rich that one has difficulty reaching the upper portions before midday, not due to the steepness but to the frequent encounters with such special creatures like Razor-billed Currasow, Military Macaw (there are six species of macaw that occur on the property; probably a record for any single site in South America), Amazonian Umbrella-Bird, mixed species flocks that may contain 20 or more species, and several monkey species, including impressive numbers of the Common Woolly Monkey, much prized by hunters. The presence of species like the currasows, macaws, and monkeys indicate that, although some subsistence hunting is allowed in the Cultural Zone, what hunting pressure there is must be very light indeed, as these species are the first to disappear when regions are colonized.

Additionally there are several streams, some with marshy areas, where amazonian standards like Hoatzin, Sun Bittern, several rails, including the rarely seen Blackish Rail, and other water and marsh species occur. On sunny mornings one of my favorite things to do is spend that precious half hour or so when the air first becomes heated enough to begin to rise along the front of the ridge with a telescope and check the numerous soaring raptors that rapidly ride these air currents up the face of the ridge. Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle and Solitary Eagle, both rare and local throughout their ranges, are to be seen under these conditions and I have watched a calling Orange-breasted Falcon soar up and finally over the ridge. Buckley's Forest-Falcon, long an almost unknown bird, occurs in the old overgrown plantation, where I have seen it almost on the ground following an army ant swarm! In fact, there are 5 species of forest-falcons present, again, probably a record for any single site.

Amazonia Lodge has mostly been used as a way station, a one or two night break for persons headed for the Reserved Zone of the park. In my opinion, it is a major destination in its own right. Lying just a little higher just at the base of the Andes than the lowland rain forests of lower Manu, it has a markedly more comfortable climate and a welcome scarcity of annoying insects. Yet 95% of the lowland species, including some 40 or so species of antbirds, are present there, complemented by a number of interesting foothill species not found lower. In fact, a visit to Amazonia, which requires traversing the Cusco-Atalaya road, permits one to pass through the richest 100 km. (60 mile) road in the world for birds. This 100 km., culminating in a comfortable base from which to explore the lowland species, passes through the range of around 900 species of birds! Long will I treasure my month at Amazonia, especially the friendship and kindness of the Yabar family, and much would I like to repeat the experience."

John C. Arvin

Professional birding tour guide for 20 years

In recapping my recent trip to Amazonia, I felt it best to leave the description of the avifauna to those with high credentials as bird experts and record my impressions of the experience itself.

I hope you find the following informative and enjoyable -

"The birdiest location in the world" was my introduction to the Manu Biosphere. This was the

title of a presentation by the highly respected and recently retired birding guide, John Arvin. Within the next year I was in Amazonia and with Peru's most competent young guide, Ramiro

Yabar. It was soon evident that I had made two excellent choices in both the location and the guide. Peru is in itself a very charming country. It has done an outstanding job of removing past tourist concerns and provides today's traveler a comfortable reception at its modernized air

terminals. Upon arrival in Cusco I was graciously cared for by Ramiro and the attending staff at each lodge for the duration of my stay.

After clearing Customs, we were off to Huacarpay Lakes and my first look at Andean specialties. Within several hours we sighted 62 species, a grand start. Early the next morning we started our drive on the Manu road. Shortly, we crested the ridge of the Andes and entered the elfin forest of the Biosphere, a truly memorable view. The clouds came up to greet us creating an ethereal

effect. Soon we encountered numerous mixed flocks of birds. Late that day we arrived at the Manu Cloud Forest Lodge which was our base camp for that portion of the trip. It is an elegant accommodation along a rapidly flowing stream. Soon we were enjoying a graciously served four-course meal by candle light and recapping the events of the day. Afterward, we listed the birds we'd seen and made our plans for the next day's birding. Throughout the remainder of the trip, I was pleasantly amazed by the variety and quality of each delicious meal.

After several days of enjoying the highland birds, we descended to the Madre de Dios River. Here we boarded a boat for a short ride down-river to the Amazonia Lodge. It is a former tea plantation, now run exclusively as a birding lodge by the Yabar family. It is in a lovely setting in the cleared jungle at the base of a rather steep ridge. It is on this ridge that one of the two

recently added observation towers has been erected. It provides excellent views of the upper story birds. The other tower is at the edge of a nearby wetland area and is an excellent vantage point for bird observation. The Lodge has an understated elegance. The rooms are comfortably large and high ceilinged, providing very comfortable sleeping arrangements. The dining room provides a very pleasant ambiance for the enjoyment of delicious meals, charmingly served.

The large porch is the social center of the finca. Here, during brief birding interludes, we'd relax in the overstuffed wicker furniture, enjoying the colorful variety of 'yard birds' visiting the many feeding stations, especially the hummingbirds. The surrounding habitat is varied, from the

previously mentioned heavily forested ridge, to bamboo thicket and riparian areas providing an exceptional variety of bird species.

Bidding the Amazonia Lodge "family" farewell, after three full days of birding, we again boarded the river boat and headed to the Manu Wildlife Center, seven hours down-river. The trip is a

marvelous combination of 'arm chair' birding, ever-changing scenery and the opportunity to see some of the 12 indigenous peoples still residing in this remote area as they've done for

thousands of years. Arriving at the Center, luggage was quickly unloaded and we were off to the observation tower and a full afternoon of fine birding. The accommodations are individual

bamboo cottages with private bath set in a garden- like jungle clearing. As has been our custom each day, breakfast is before dawn, allowing the maximum opportunity for bird observation.

Here we had mixed habitat, heavily forested trails, bamboo thicket, lowland trails through the 'grid', boating down to a floating blind to observe parrots at the clay licks, night birding and a mammal interlude to observe tapirs at their bog lick. Although our concentration was on birds,

I must admit that seeing eight species of monkeys and an ocelot, while night birding, was an added enjoyment.

All too soon we left the river lowland and were back in the van heading in the direction of Cusco. Many birders choose to extend their visit to include the renowned Incan religious site, Machu Picchu. Since I had been there previously, Ramiro wisely suggested a visit to Abra Malaga.

This is on the western slopes of the Andes and provides access to many bird species and

endemics unique to the polylepis forest. Getting there was an adventure in itself as we slowly wound our way up to the pass at over 4000 meters and then down to our destination with

marvelous views into verdant valleys and up to snow- capped peaks. The day was filled in search of birds. Again, I marveled at Ramiro's knowledge of bird vocalizations as we sought each bird. This is my 'litmus test' of a guide's abilities, and he is the best I've had the pleasure to be with in my search for birds on five continents. Nightfall was approaching and we had to return to Cusco for my return flight to the US in the morning. With just enough twilight we stopped at a favorite location and added my last bird of the trip, the Striped-headed Antpitta. Since this was my favored bird family on this excursion, I could not have asked for a more fitting ending to a trip of a lifetime. In fifteen and one-half days, I observed 507 of Peru's approximate 1750 total species. To paraphrase Winston Churchill's frequently quoted comment,

"So much accomplished, yet, so far to go!"

Tom Schall

Avid birder

Corpus Christi, TX

Mr. Schall is a contributing writer to the ABA's newsletter 'Winging It'. In the November 2002

issue he described his RV travels to Mexico and Belize.

- ed.

Amazonia Lodge
Manu Biosphere Reserve
Near Atalaya, Peru

The Deans visited this lodge in April 2003, as part of a bird watching tour offered by Ramiro and Virgilio Yabar. The Yabar Calderon Family has owned this lodge (a former hacienda) for more than 25 years, purchasing it to create a tourism site, which has evolved into eco tourism, with a
bird watching focus. Professional bird watching tour companies have used this lodge since 1985. Lodge location along the Pini Pina mountain range and the Alto Madre de Dios River (part of the Amazon River Basin) is ideal for a wide variety of bird species (more than 563). The

canopy tower (about 100 steps high) is the only mid-mountain viewing platform in primary forest, now existing in either Central or South America. Tower access is achieved after hiking a trail with about a 20% grade for approximately one mile. Numerous bottomland trails (many either muddy or dusty depending on closeness to rainy season (NOV-MAR, I.e., April muddy) take

birders through secondary forest to riparian sites. Also, a more easily accessed and lower

platform is available for locating Hoatzins, rails, crakes, etc.. Further, 157 species can be seen from the hacienda's generous porch. Although no electricity is available for guests, solar
energy heats shower water. A new block of clean, tiled bathrooms (each with a complete set of fixtures) is available for guests. Kerosene lanterns light the way after dark. A large container provides purified water for individual use. Delicious meals are included with room price and are served in a separate dining room, with limited bar service.

The Deans highly recommend the Amazonia Lodge tour, which includes a bird watching day in Cusco, as well as, three nights at the Manu Cloud Forest Lodge (new facility, solar hot water, and 3-4 hours electricity each evening). This tour covers habitats in three elevation zones, plus
numerous roadside stops (whenever a flock is detected) between these three zones, which

concludes with four days at Amazonia Lodge. Since much of the birding is along roadways, most bird watchers can enjoy this tour.

Please note that this is a one lane, dirt road with pullouts. April '03 was still wet, requiring 4 wheel climbs over mud slides and through mud wallows, as well as, drives through waterfalls.

At times, steep drops are close to the road edge. Also, there is one, short but steep trail, used
along the way to see the Red and White Antpitta. In addition, the Yabars offer a four day

extension, culminating in a cultural tour and bird watching at Machu Picchu. Again, much of the bird watching occurs along roads. However, one day was dedicated to finding the dozen or so endemic and specialty species of the endangered polylepis forest, small groups of old, stunted trees, which grow at about 13,500 feet. Frankly, the climb from 13,900' to about 14,100' was not as difficult for us, as the descent to the forest, followed by series of steep descents and plateaus to the end of the valley, where Virgilio met us with the car. There is no time to acclimate, and

altitude sickness made this very hard for Bob (75), but his good health made it possible for him to see most of the birds. Those with respiratory or cardiovascular problems should not attempt his high altitude scramble (no trail). Further, snow (possible at any time of year) makes the scramble unsafe for any one, regardless of physical condition. Substitute or alternate bird watching at the Urabamba hotel used by the Yabars (great gardens) is available. While this tour was more strenuous than expected, the Deans delight in the collection of birds sighted. Ramiro makes a great effort to locate and attract endemics, specialties and hard to spot species, such as, various ant birds. We saw 15 of the 28 possible endemics, and 12 of the 22 specialties (including the Royal Cinclodes). Altogether, we saw 393 different species in just 13 days.

Contact Information

WEB: www.amazonialodge.com

E-mail: amazonia1@terra.com.pe

If this tour is taken, we recommend an extra couple of days in Lima for a bit of bird watching and a cultural tour. Here we used the recommended services of Monica Velasquez C., who will meet your plane, take you to nearby bird watching sites (Monica is not a bird watcher), conduct a
cultural tour, recommend restaurants, book your flights to and from Cusco and generally ensure that you remain safe while in the congested city of Lima, where some taxi drivers are said to take advantage of tourists.

Contact Information:

Web: www.monicatourism.da.ru

E-Mail: vc_monica@hotmail.com

Robert and Nancy Dean

Florida, USA

"My husband and I have traveled and birded throughout North America, Kenya, Venezuela,

Ecuador, the Galapagos, and several times in Peru. We are avid birders, but by no means

experts. We love South America - the people and the nature available there with travel that is comfortable and far beyond what one would expect in traversing the wilds. In our recent '03

return to Peru, we chose to spend part of the trip at the Amazonia Lodge. This turned out to be a fantastic choice. Traveling in and out of Cuzco (via Lima) is relatively easy and allows for a

variety of side trips (a return to Machu Picchu, a side trip out of Lima, and other rainforest areas in Peru out from Cuzco). I was extremely impressed by the help provided by Siduith (Fertur
Peru). She was knowledgeable, helpful, and very responsive. We communicated via email and fax. I am greatly indebted to Steve Urban as well. He was able to share personal experiences in Peru, as well as specifics about various lodges and areas. He contributed some great ideas
to our planning.

We were extremely impressed with the birding expertise provided by Virgilio. One could be leery that anyone may know one tiny species from another by ear, but upon hearing the recorded calls and then seeing the bird and matching up in the Field Guide to the Birds of Peru - presto! the same bird! And he knew hundreds! We were also amazed at Virgilio's patience in helping
us to locate and sight the birds and whenever possible that we both saw each one quite well - not just a fleeting glance. This wasn't just about checking birds off to increase our list number. We were totally amazed, however, to have seen over 300 birds (many endemic) during just this 9-day segment of our trip. This was quality birding time to the max!

Our travel & lodging accommodations were nicely taken care. We had an extremely competent and friendly driver. While he didn't speak English and we very little Spanish, we enjoyed one another's company. The Manu Cloud Forest Lodge provided excellent launching points for daily birding activities near the river, on the deck overlooking the river, and up and down the road to various birding areas. The scenery alone is worth the trip. Our hosts at the lodge were fun to be with - serving meals and sharing conversation. We thoroughly enjoyed the pre-dawn activity of the Cock of the Rock courting rituals. After several days, we began working our way further into the interior of the rainforest allowing us to see many new birds and flora along the mountain lanes. Upon reaching Amazonia Lodge, we were delighted with the relaxing atmosphere, great food, and variety of birding locales. The variety of species viewable from the porch alone is truly impressive! The tower views and sightings, as well as all of the various terrain made for an

extremely interesting trip. The fun of seeing and hearing monkeys and various other wildlife just rounded out the experience.

As usual, we look forward to a return to South America in the not-too-distant future. We feel strongly that anyone from casual to committed, die-hard avid birders will thoroughly enjoy this experience."

Lana & Bob Scott
Oregon, WI
lanascott@charter.net

"Ramiro not only knew the birds by sight, sound and habitat, but also spoke excellent English and was patient with those of us who didn't have 'jungle eyes'. Great guide, great guy."

Mark and Sandy Turner

New Hampshire USA

"In July 2001 a group of eight friends took a 20 day birding and touring trip to Southeastern Peru organized and led by Ramiro Yabar. Our itinerary included the Cuzco area and nearby Huacarpay Lakes; Manu Road from Cuzco to Atalaya; Cock of the Rock Lodge; Amazonia Lodge (owned and operated by Ramiro's parents); boat trip on the Madre de Dios river with stay at Tambo-Blanquillo Lodge; Urubamba area; Abra Malaga Pass including west slope and Polylepis forest; Machu Picchu and the Paracas Peninsula area.

The birding was fantastic!! The group composite list included 532 species seen with 12 endemics and numerous rarities (Royal Cinclodes, Amazonian Antpitta, Manu Antbird etc.). An additional 17 species were recorded as heard only for a group total of 549 species. Ramiro Yabar is an outstanding tour leader. His unbounded energy, organization and attention to detail, birding skills, command of English, knowledge of Peru, passion for birding and infectious smile all combine to make for an unparalleled tour experience.

Peru is an incredible destination. The topography, scenery and habitat diversity are unmatched. The Peruvians are friendly and welcoming. The travel logistics and accommodations are excellent and the birding is beyond description. Anyone considering a birding trip to Peru should contact Ramiro Yabar. I recommend him without reservation."

Eric L. Decker

Salisbury, Md.

"Our 15-day journey took us from the high Andes to the Madre de Díos River, through unbroken habitat that stretched as far as the eye could see. It was truly a memorable trip with over 500 bird and 8 primate species seen by the group. Our leader, Ramiro Yábar, has the amazing ability to locate and identify wildlife with his keen hearing and he also has the quiet patience to ensure that all group members were able to find and enjoy the wildlife as well. I would recommend this trip, and Ramiro as its leader, to all my birding friends."

Susan Rice, United States

"During September 2001 four of us had a 'trip of a lifetime' birding in Peru guided by Ramiro Yabar. We went by van from Cusco to the Manu Cloud Forest Lodge and then on to Atalaya located on the Madre De Dios river. Over the next nine days then spent time at Amazonia Lodge, Pantiacolla Lodge, Manu Lodge, and Manu Wildlife Center with the river as our highway. Ramiro was ready to bird whenever we were and available 24 hours a day to us if we desired (sleep was optional). Ramiro is one of the best bird guides we have ever had the pleasure of birding with! We're looking forward to returning again."

Steve and Joy Urban

Portsmouth, New Hampshire, USA

"We only spent 5 days with Ramiro in the Cloud Forest and at Amazonia - our only regret is that we couldn't have spent more time in his company. Ramiro's personal guiding was brilliant - a real professional who helped me see dozens and dozens of birds I would never have spotted on my own. The warmth of the hospitality at Amazonia Lodge was wonderful - Nelly & Santiago (Mum and Dad) look after Ramiro and his guests so well, no wonder Ramiro returns home often!! The birding and wildlife opportunities are outstanding and a fabulous setting too. I hope I can return one day."

Roy Philpott - North Yorkshire, England June 2002

"Three weeks of Peru birding is a highlight of any birder's travel experience, and the Amazonia Lodge has much to do with this. The location, habitat variety, trails, excursions, towers, and guiding expertise of Ramiro Yabar and his family make it an ideal spot. Add to this the comfort, hospitality, and familiar feel of the accommodations, and one has a destination unparalleled. Not just for birders, either, but a haven for butterflies, botanists, any species of nature lover.

For those considering a visit, we say simply 'Do it.'"
Terry Fuller / world birder and naturalist
Marci Fuller / Education Chair, RGV Birding Festival